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Water tank problem

  • Thread starter Ian on the road
  • Start date
Ian on the road

Ian on the road

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95
Location
Oswestry UK
Vehicle
Grand California 680
A few weeks ago the van went int the dealer to check the clean water pump on the fresh water tank. Haven’t used since. Yesterday when filling, the water just kept escaping. Got under and took a photo. The black circle right in the middle is where the water was coming from.

Valve on fresh water tank was closed. Both water valves in the centre consumer unit closed.

Any ideas what is open?

B85C35BB-8F4B-4CAD-AF34-4F3ED275207A.jpeg
 
isn't that the fuel tank ? and the 2 diesel pumps for the aux heaters are visible there . that black circle looks just like a grommet. can't work out what you mean. but sounds to me like you need to have a look at the water pump access hatch, check its tight and sealed on top of the tank. vw master techs strike again !!!!
 
The black is the diesel and the clear, the water. It is a grommet. Checked the access hatch. Right about master techs
 
The picture above must surely be of the grey water tank? That being the case, if you have a 'leak' in that area, check the blue drain valve and blue button near the Truma access hatch under the bench seat.
 
The picture above must surely be of the grey water tank? That being the case, if you have a 'leak' in that area, check the blue drain valve and blue button near the Truma access hatch under the bench seat.
Job for the morning. Thanks.
 
Don’t know on tne GC but campers with a hot water system have security valves to drop out all water without using the manual valve .
Have you been checking the manual ?
But if you say it’s been in at the dealer getting work done , could be they messed up something.
 
Don’t know on tne GC but campers with a hot water system have security valves to drop out all water without using the manual valve .
Have you been checking the manual ?
But if you say it’s been in at the dealer getting work done , could be they messed up something.
It is most likely to be the pesky Truma frost protection valve. At 4 degrees it activates and dumps your water tank.
 
It is most likely to be the pesky Truma frost protection valve. At 4 degrees it activates and dumps your water tank.
Helpful. So not useful for winter trips.
 
It is most likely to be the pesky Truma frost protection valve. At 4 degrees it activates and dumps your water tank.
Flicking through the manual(not read properly yet!) it says something like 'drain the boiler if frost is likely' does this mean you have to manually drain the system in addition to the frost protection valve automatically opening?
 
The Truma automatic valves can be a mixed blessing in cold weather as they dump water if the temperature at valve is at 4C or below. Thus filling in cold weather can be a problem!
People with motor homes get round this by using various peg and defeat arrangements on the valve to allow them to prevent discharge- See motorhome forums for fixes.

Be aware that some have found out that having filled up at home that they arrive at their mountain camping spot to find the valve has operated during the journey! Not good if you are planning on wild camping!


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The Truma automatic valves can be a mixed blessing in cold weather as they dump water if the temperature at valve is at 4C or below. Thus filling in cold weather can be a problem!
People with motor homes get round this by using various peg and defeat arrangements on the valve to allow them to prevent discharge- See motorhome forums for fixes.

Be aware that some have found out that having filled up at home that they arrive at their mountain camping spot to find the valve has operated during the journey! Not good if you are planning on wild camping!


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Not good for the car behind if was also the grey water!
 
So this has given me a right merry dance today! I was busy prepping the vehicle for a customer pick-up in a few days. The water tank was dumped twice because of the Truma anti frost valve. Ok, no problems thinks me, I'll just reset the valve and fill it back up and leave the heater on low. The issue was the blue button on the valve would not go back in! Turns out the safety valve kicks in at 4 degrees but you can't push the button back in until about 7-8 degrees! I had to put the heating on but close the exhaust vents, this helps to keep the heat inside the bench seat where the sensor is. Once it comes up to 7-8 degrees you can then push the blue plunger button back in. Seems logical once you know how it all works but caught me out!

Lesson to us all, if you want to keep the contents of your water tank in winter, make sure the inside is kept to at least 5 degrees.
 
Last edited:
So this has given me a right merry dance today! I was busy prepping the vehicle for a customer pick-up in a few days. The water tank was dumped twice because of the Truma anti frost valve. Ok, no problems thinks me, I'll just reset the valve and fill it back up and leave the heater on low. The issue was the blue button on the valve would not go back in! Turns out the safety valve kicks in a 4 degrees but you can't push the button back in until about 7-8 degrees! I had to put the heating on but close the exhaust vents, this helps to keep the heat inside the bench seat where the sensor is. Once it comes up to 7-8 degrees you can then push the blue plunger button back in. Seems logical once you know how it all works but caught me out!

Lesson to us all, if you want to keep the contents of your water tank in winter, make sure the inside is kept to at least 5 degrees.
And the mystery is solved. Many thanks @Soton Campers - invaluable

So this has given me a right merry dance today! I was busy prepping the vehicle for a customer pick-up in a few days. The water tank was dumped twice because of the Truma anti frost valve. Ok, no problems thinks me, I'll just reset the valve and fill it back up and leave the heater on low. The issue was the blue button on the valve would not go back in! Turns out the safety valve kicks in a 4 degrees but you can't push the button back in until about 7-8 degrees! I had to put the heating on but close the exhaust vents, this helps to keep the heat inside the bench seat where the sensor is. Once it comes up to 7-8 degrees you can then push the blue plunger button back in. Seems logical once you know how it all works but caught me out!

Lesson to us all, if you want to keep the contents of your water tank in winter, make sure the inside is kept to at least 5 degrees.
Do you know if the optional Frost Control heating element

1. Is compatible?
2. Would assist?
 
Do you know if the optional Frost Control heating element

1. Is compatible?
2. Would assist?

It would be nice to have the option. If you find one compatible then please share.
 
It would be nice to have the option. If you find one compatible then please share.
This is in the manual

Truma supplies a heating element (part no. 70070-01) as an accessory, which is plugged into the FrostControl and fixed in place with a retaining bracket. This heating element heats the FrostControl to approx. 10 °C when the Combi D is switched on. This means that the boiler can be filled sooner, irrespective of the temperature in the installation compartment.
 
So this has given me a right merry dance today! I was busy prepping the vehicle for a customer pick-up in a few days. The water tank was dumped twice because of the Truma anti frost valve. Ok, no problems thinks me, I'll just reset the valve and fill it back up and leave the heater on low. The issue was the blue button on the valve would not go back in! Turns out the safety valve kicks in at 4 degrees but you can't push the button back in until about 7-8 degrees! I had to put the heating on but close the exhaust vents, this helps to keep the heat inside the bench seat where the sensor is. Once it comes up to 7-8 degrees you can then push the blue plunger button back in. Seems logical once you know how it all works but caught me out!

Lesson to us all, if you want to keep the contents of your water tank in winter, make sure the inside is kept to at least 5 degrees.
Another tip is just turn on the hot water which normally keeps it warm enough so it doesn’t dump.
 
Another tip is just turn on the hot water which normally keeps it warm enough so it doesn’t dump.
But you can't do that until you've got some water back in there & you can't use gas to heat the water whilst you are driving.
I always found a strategically placed peg was the safest bet.

The waste tank on our old van was a. bigger problem, once you've got 100litres of water frozen into a solid block it takes weeks to thaw. Also the expansion of the ice turns the tank into an interesting shape.
 
On the suggestion to close heater air vents to heat up the valve space - make sure that some other vents are open or you risk frying the ducting and possible burner failure = expensive repair

A peg has been the most common solution but then you have to remember to remove it and drain it down in winter and so may as well have a manual valve!

The automatic valve is a classic example of a good idea in theory that does not quite work in real life.


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A few weeks ago the van went int the dealer to check the clean water pump on the fresh water tank. Haven’t used since. Yesterday when filling, the water just kept escaping. Got under and took a photo. The black circle right in the middle is where the water was coming from.

Valve on fresh water tank was closed. Both water valves in the centre consumer unit closed.

Any ideas what is open?

View attachment 70416
Took us a while to figure this one out too. 5 valves in total: 1 under mattress next to sink, 2 in cupboard next to bathroom under bed (these are under a flap in the floor of the cupboard) and 2 blue ones in cupboard under bench seat. Have just drained my water no for cold weather.
 
What I have also noticed is that the heater, even when on hookup, will turn itself off after what seems 48 hours! I need to do some more rigorous testing. Anyone else noticed this?
 
What I have also noticed is that the heater, even when on hookup, will turn itself off after what seems 48 hours! I need to do some more rigorous testing. Anyone else noticed this?
Will let you know by 15:00 Sunday
 
What I have also noticed is that the heater, even when on hookup, will turn itself off after what seems 48 hours! I need to do some more rigorous testing. Anyone else noticed this?
16:54 and still working at 19%
 
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