Leisure Batteries Charging and Control Panel

[Billie]

Hello, this is my first ever post. I have searched for the answer to my query and I wasn't sure if I should start a new post, but thought that may be best. Apologies if this has been dealt with before.
We have had our California for just under two years and I have plugged it in to an outside socket every few weeks whenever we haven't used it much, particularly over the winter.
Recently I have noticed that after being on charge for 24 hours or more, all of the bars have not been turning blue (all except the end one), whereas previously I'm sure they would all turn blue. I switched the outside socket off last night after being connected for about 36 hours and the control panel still showed one bar had not turned blue (I didn't take any photos or record the voltage). I went back to the van this afternoon (about 16 hours later) and there were now 2 bars that were not blue (there had been nothing switched on over that period) The first photo is of the control panel at this point.
I switched on the EHU again, the next two photos are immediately after switching on the EHU and then 5 minutes later. The second photo of these shows the voltage at 14.5v and I think I've read somewhere on here that the voltage shouldn't be that high, but cannot find that now, so I switched the EHU off just in case I was causing any damage.
The final two photos are after switching off the EHU and again after another 10 minutes.
My query is, does this all seem ok or not? Any thoughts will be much appreciated.

 

[dspuk]

Everything is ok. The voltage regulator is just protecting the batteries by not fully charging them all the time.

VW controls like the batteries to be 80% for longevity and health.

We owners like to see the blue bars as a water jug to be filled to the brim with electricity but that’s not actually the best way to treat them and the regulator manages that for us with some sort of engineer maths that is beyond me.

If you want them to be fully blue, take it for a run out and put the max charge setting on. We only do this though if we are going to be off EHU for a few days. Which is rare. They will easily last three days off EHU and with no solar.

TBH I’ve stopped looking at them, even more so now we have a solar panel up top.

The numbers are fine and part of the VW algorithm. You can see the amps being put in and the charging voltage of the battery (set by the regulator). You are not damaging them.

The TLDR for all these battery questions (been dealt with a few times) is don’t sweat it.

 

[Markgray6.1ocean]

Hit max charge when the engine is started. Then you will see the amps go in!

 

[yossarian]

Recently I have noticed that after being on charge for 24 hours or more, all of the bars have not been turning blue (all except the end one), whereas previously I'm sure they would all turn blue.

This is slightly concerning.

voltage at 14.5v and I think I've read somewhere on here that the voltage shouldn't be that high

14.5V on EHU for a limited time period (the equalisation phase) is normal. It should drop to 13.8V or so after a few hours.

I would leave it on EHU, check that float voltage is achieved ( 13.8V approx) and leave it on float for a few days. This will help remove any lead sulphate you might have accumulated.

If that doesn't help, post back and include your model year ( there's a wiring difference at about my20) mention any modifications you might have (like solar) and be prepared to take a voltage reading of the rear battery.

 

[Billie]

This is slightly concerning.

14.5V on EHU for a limited time period (the equalisation phase) is normal. It should drop to 13.8V or so after a few hours.

I would leave it on EHU, check that float voltage is achieved ( 13.8V approx) and leave it on float for a few days. This will help remove any lead sulphate you might have accumulated.

If that doesn't help, post back and include your model year ( there's a wiring difference at about my20) mention any modifications you might have (like solar) and be prepared to take a voltage reading of the rear battery

Thank you. It was new in April 2022

 

[Billie]

Everything is ok. The voltage regulator is just protecting the batteries by not fully charging them all the time.

VW controls like the batteries to be 80% for longevity and health.

We owners like to see the blue bars as a water jug to be filled to the brim with electricity but that’s not actually the best way to treat them and the regulator manages that for us with some sort of engineer maths that is beyond me.

If you want them to be fully blue, take it for a run out and put the max charge setting on. We only do this though if we are going to be off EHU for a few days. Which is rare. They will easily last three days off EHU and with no solar.

TBH I’ve stopped looking at them, even more so now we have a solar panel up top.

The numbers are fine and part of the VW algorithm. You can see the amps being put in and the charging voltage of the battery (set by the regulator). You are not damaging them.

The TLDR for all these battery questions (been dealt with a few times) is don’t sweat it.

Thanks

 

[Billie]

Hit max charge when the engine is started. Then you will see the amps go in!

Cheers

 

[yossarian]

April 2022

In that case the voltage shown by the vehicle seems to be an average of the two batteries and looking at the numbers your cube fuse is probably ok.

Float charge for a few days is probably all you need.

 

[Roger Boeken]

In that case the voltage shown by the vehicle seems to be an average of the two batteries and looking at the numbers your cube fuse is probably ok.

Float charge for a few days is probably all you need.

Voltage must be equal since parallel circuit but current in/out may be different though supposed to be equal too. Control panel shows sum of currents of the 2 batteries Since measuring shunt on each battery in T6.1.

 

[yossarian]

Voltage must be equal since parallel circuit but current in/out may be different though supposed to be equal too

Early 6.1s have the aft sensor miswired so that things don't work as you'd expect if the fuse is blown.

 

[Roger Boeken]

Early 6.1s have the aft sensor miswired so that things don't work as you'd expect if the fuse is blown.

Didn't know: more details please or is there another thread about it from the past I missed ?

 

[yossarian]

Didn't know: more details please or is there another thread about it from the past I missed ?

Early models are wired as depicted in this diagram.

https://vwcaliforniaclub.com/resources/camping-electrical-t6-1-ocean-2-battery.212/download

Later models are wired as described here:

Solar only charges 2nd leisure battery

Hi! I've bought a 100w kit from Roger at Solar Camper Solutions, I have thought that everything has worked well since I installed the solar cell 1 month ago. But during our last trip, I discovered that the battery life was shorter than it used to be before I bought the solar cell. One morning...

vwcaliforniaclub.com

The later models have a different positive clamp on a24 with a bolt on position for the sensor. I posted a photo somewhere; I'll edit this post if I find it.

Consider the current path when S339 is no longer intact.

Edit: Details and photos

Working link