Fuses under Passenger seat

[Fitz@CFB]

We have a 2018 Ocean. Both the 12v socket behind the kitchen sink and the one at the front of the pop-top roof have stopped working/charging. First thought - must be a fuse. Found an excellent annotated photo of the fuse board under the seat (I think posted by Loz for which many thanks)
Attached photo shows our version which is slightly different - it has an extra 4th 15 amp plus 2x 20amp ones next to it in the top row.
I have managed to confirm that the first 15 is indeed the 12v socket by the bench seat at the C pillar as per Loz’s diagram, and that all 4 15 amp fuses are good.
I can’t find out what the other 3 15 amps are for nor the 2 x 20 amp ones. Certainly none of those fuses solve the mystery of the u/s 12 v sockets behind the sink and in the roof.
Can anyone confirm what these fuses are for please? Also if a blown fuse is not causing the problem with the sockets what should i look for next to fault find.
Of course it is under warranty and I could just default to the dealer but its a 2 hour round trip and I want to get more familiar with the detailed systems in the van to be able to fix stuff while its in use.
Many Thanks
Fitz

 

[WelshGas]

We have a 2018 Ocean. Both the 12v socket behind the kitchen sink and the one at the front of the pop-top roof have stopped working/charging. First thought - must be a fuse. Found an excellent annotated photo of the fuse board under the seat (I think posted by Loz for which many thanks)
Attached photo shows our version which is slightly different - it has an extra 4th 15 amp plus 2x 20amp ones next to it in the top row.
I have managed to confirm that the first 15 is indeed the 12v socket by the bench seat at the C pillar as per Loz’s diagram, and that all 4 15 amp fuses are good.
I can’t find out what the other 3 15 amps are for nor the 2 x 20 amp ones. Certainly none of those fuses solve the mystery of the u/s 12 v sockets behind the sink and in the roof.
Can anyone confirm what these fuses are for please? Also if a blown fuse is not causing the problem with the sockets what should i look for next to fault find.
Of course it is under warranty and I could just default to the dealer but its a 2 hour round trip and I want to get more familiar with the detailed systems in the van to be able to fix stuff while its in use.
Many Thanks
Fitz

View attachment 79150

A. The fuse positions can vary between vehicles, significantly.
B. Visual inspection is not always good enough. A multimeter or swapping with the C pillar fuse is better.
Under seat fuses power the lights, waterpump, 12v sockets, water tank sensors, fridge and parking heater.

 

[Loz]

Those 2 12v outlets share a common fuse so it will be one of those 15A fuses, however, are all the other sockets working C pillar and in the boot? I ask as these fuses will also have a common feed wire to the fuse block, so you may also need to check the connection block on the battery positive as we have also seen supply cables that have not been reconnected following work etc.

 

[Fitz@CFB]

Many thanks for the feedback already.
I did assume that all the 12v sockets must somehow come from that bank of 15A fuses so I checked all the fuses by putting each one into the circuit for the C pillar socket under the back seat which is working and they were all good. I then put what i knew were good fuses back into the 4 slots they came from and still no joy with the sink or roof sockets.
I also tried a new fuse in each slot - the C pillar socket worked but not the ones causing the problem - hence my thought that it must be something other than fuses.
We haven’t had any work done on the van which might have disconnected the battery but i will check the battery positive to make sure all connections are tight.
Thanks again

 

[Loz]

Okay, good troubleshooting so far, do you have a multimeter or 12V tester you can use to probe each side of the fuses for a 12v presence? then you can move to check for 12v and Ground on those sockets (could have a lost ground to those sockets)

 

[Fitz@CFB]

Thanks for your helpful replies. I will locate my old multimeter, try to remember how it works and continue with the fault finding.

 

[Thelovewalrus]

Those 2 12v outlets share a common fuse so it will be one of those 15A fuses, however, are all the other sockets working C pillar and in the boot? I ask as these fuses will also have a common feed wire to the fuse block, so you may also need to check the connection block on the battery positive as we have also seen supply cables that have not been reconnected following work etc.

View attachment 79155

where is this arrangement located is it the engine bay?

 

[KGCali]

where is this arrangement located is it the engine bay?

On the leisure battery under the passenger seat.

 

[Blue Yonder]

Many thanks for the feedback already.
I did assume that all the 12v sockets must somehow come from that bank of 15A fuses so I checked all the fuses by putting each one into the circuit for the C pillar socket under the back seat which is working and they were all good. I then put what i knew were good fuses back into the 4 slots they came from and still no joy with the sink or roof sockets.
I also tried a new fuse in each slot - the C pillar socket worked but not the ones causing the problem - hence my thought that it must be something other than fuses.
We haven’t had any work done on the van which might have disconnected the battery but i will check the battery positive to make sure all connections are tight.
Thanks again

Did you resolve this problem if so how. I have same problem on my VW T6 California and it's not the 15 amp fuse. Thanks for taking time to reply

 

[Fitz@CFB]

Did you resolve this problem if so how. I have same problem on my VW T6 California and it's not the 15 amp fuse. Thanks for taking time to reply

The advice from Loz was correct - as usual! The 15 amp fuse for the centre dashboard piggy lighter socket in behind the bottle holder. It was blown and replacement solved problem.
No luck yet with the socket upstairs on passenger seat side but I need to get back to checking all the other 15 amp fuses both behind the bottle holder and under the passenger seat as I haven't found one yet specifically for that outlet.
But having one more working makes a big difference so pleased with progress!
Loz also suggested checking the wiring at battery - mine is fine but that may be another place to look.

 

[Blue Yonder]

The advice from Loz was correct - as usual! The 15 amp fuse for the centre dashboard piggy lighter socket in behind the bottle holder. It was blown and replacement solved problem.
No luck yet with the socket upstairs on passenger seat side but I need to get back to checking all the other 15 amp fuses both behind the bottle holder and under the passenger seat as I haven't found one yet specifically for that outlet.
But having one more working makes a big difference so pleased with progress!
Loz also suggested checking the wiring at battery - mine is fine but that may be another place to look.

Thank you for getting back to me. I have checked all of the above and even tried replacing the 12v socket with same one (that is has the grey sensing wire). I suspect the issue is with the sensing side of this connection, which is connected to the kitchen 12v socket in series. That is the canbus (vans electronic brain)
Cuts power to the sockets if it detects a low leisure battery voltage. My leisure battery is fine. My solution, which is work in progress, is to put a piggy back fuse in the 15 amp fuse location under passenger seat. Run wires to an illuminated switch fitted to the passenger base seat then from that new positive feeds to the roof and kitchen 12v sockets. I will use the existing negative brown wires. I will also while I’m at it replace the 12v sockets at these two location with USB outlet sockets. The illuminated switch I will install in the passenger seat base is just so I can isolate the power to these sockets when not in camping mode. I will use a 15 amp fuse in the piggy back fuse but I will not fit one in the slot that would make the original positive feeds to the 12v sockets live. I will also take care to ensure the ends of these wires are “taped off’ just in case some in the future puts missing fuse back in and by some miracle they become live again with 12v. I have already made a start by popping off the passenger side b pillar trim and running wires from what will be the new usb outlets to the illuminate switch in the passenger seat. Also completely removed old 12v outlets and there plastic surrounds. So no going back now wish me luck

 

[Fitz@CFB]

Thank you for getting back to me. I have checked all of the above and even tried replacing the 12v socket with same one (that is has the grey sensing wire). I suspect the issue is with the sensing side of this connection, which is connected to the kitchen 12v socket in series. That is the canbus (vans electronic brain)
Cuts power to the sockets if it detects a low leisure battery voltage. My leisure battery is fine. My solution, which is work in progress, is to put a piggy back fuse in the 15 amp fuse location under passenger seat. Run wires to an illuminated switch fitted to the passenger base seat then from that new positive feeds to the roof and kitchen 12v sockets. I will use the existing negative brown wires. I will also while I’m at it replace the 12v sockets at these two location with USB outlet sockets. The illuminated switch I will install in the passenger seat base is just so I can isolate the power to these sockets when not in camping mode. I will use a 15 amp fuse in the piggy back fuse but I will not fit one in the slot that would make the original positive feeds to the 12v sockets live. I will also take care to ensure the ends of these wires are “taped off’ just in case some in the future puts missing fuse back in and by some miracle they become live again with 12v. I have already made a start by popping off the passenger side b pillar trim and running wires from what will be the new usb outlets to the illuminate switch in the passenger seat. Also completely removed old 12v outlets and there plastic surrounds. So no going back now wish me luck

Good Luck! You obviously understand this stuff a lot better than me.
Probably not relevant but we did have trouble with the upstairs socket when the van was about 2 years old. I got it looked at under warranty. They spent several hours fault finding and finally stripped out the B pillar trim ( you mentioning it reminded me!). The answer I got was a damaged wire somewhere in the circuit almost certainly a 'crimp' during manufacture /assembly. It was then fine until last summer when it failed again - I am not going to pay for them to search again now warranty is over. If your idea works I might be brave enough to try it too.

 

[Blue Yonder]

Good Luck! You obviously understand this stuff a lot better than me.
Probably not relevant but we did have trouble with the upstairs socket when the van was about 2 years old. I got it looked at under warranty. They spent several hours fault finding and finally stripped out the B pillar trim ( you mentioning it reminded me!). The answer I got was a damaged wire somewhere in the circuit almost certainly a 'crimp' during manufacture /assembly. It was then fine until last summer when it failed again - I am not going to pay for them to search again now warranty is over. If your idea works I might be brave enough to try it too.

Job done I now have working USB A & USB outlets (instead of 12v sockets) sockets in the roof space and side of kitchen unit. I also added a 12v Jack Socket next to the roof space USB outlet socket in case I need 12v (say for a 2nd Generation Google Smart Speaker). It was relatively easy but somewhat fiddly job for me (a retired Engineer) but not “rocket surgery”. Just need to ensure you use the correct cable to carry the potential current draw (17 amp wire from switch split into 8 amp wires to each 96W USB outlet. Switch is to ensure power is cut to the outlets when not required to ensure there can be no parasitic drain on the leisure batteries. Although outlets and wires can safely hand 15 amp total load it is highly unlikely such a demand would ever occur in practice so I have down rated the fuse in the piggy back fuse to the outlets from 15 amps (blue) to 10 amps (red.

I reckon if you put a gun to my head I could have done it in around four hours having now figured out how to do it. an An Auto Electrical technician should do it easily in 4 to six hours. Parts £16 each sockets (same ones Ali Express £8 each. Illuminated switch cables and crimp connectors about £25. Jack socket £3. Tesa fabric tape £5. Tools trim removal tools drill and drill bits, half round file (to slightly enlarge existing holes for USB outlets), 12v car cigarette socket removal tool £4. Multi meter is handy to check connection integrity as you go but not essential. I did not remove the grey plastic trim around the kitchen sockets as did not want to risk breaking it instead once the original socket was out i filed the hole as fraction to small for new USB outlet. Used a few drops of super glue to fix the new USB socket on side of kitchen in place. In the roof had to file this hole too but able to use the plastic nut that came with the USB outlet to hold in place. Also fitted the cap to this one as its upward facing and so prone for detritus falling into it.

Better than factory now

 

[Blue Yonder]

Good Luck! You obviously understand this stuff a lot better than me.
Probably not relevant but we did have trouble with the upstairs socket when the van was about 2 years old. I got it looked at under warranty. They spent several hours fault finding and finally stripped out the B pillar trim ( you mentioning it reminded me!). The answer I got was a damaged wire somewhere in the circuit almost certainly a 'crimp' during manufacture /assembly. It was then fine until last summer when it failed again - I am not going to pay for them to search again now warranty is over. If your idea works I might be brave enough to try it too.

View attachment 139149View attachment 139150View attachment 139151
Job done I now have working USB A & USB outlets (instead of 12v sockets) sockets in the roof space and side of kitchen unit. I also added a 12v Jack Socket next to the roof space USB outlet socket in case I need 12v (say for a 2nd Generation Google Smart Speaker). It was relatively easy but somewhat fiddly job for me (a retired Engineer) but not “rocket surgery”. Just need to ensure you use the correct cable to carry the potential current draw (17 amp wire from switch split into 8 amp wires to each 96W USB outlet. Switch is to ensure power is cut to the outlets when not required to ensure there can be no parasitic drain on the leisure batteries. Although outlets and wires can safely hand 15 amp total load it is highly unlikely such a demand would ever occur in practice so I have down rated the fuse in the piggy back fuse to the outlets from 15 amps (blue) to 10 amps (red.

I reckon if you put a gun to my head I could have done it in around four hours having now figured out how to do it. an An Auto Electrical technician should do it easily in 4 to six hours. Parts £16 each sockets (same ones Ali Express £8 each. Illuminated switch cables and crimp connectors about £25. Jack socket £3. Tesa fabric tape £5. Tools trim removal tools drill and drill bits, half round file (to slightly enlarge existing holes for USB outlets), 12v car cigarette socket removal tool £4. Multi meter is handy to check connection integrity as you go but not essential. I did not remove the grey plastic trim around the kitchen sockets as did not want to risk breaking it instead once the original socket was out i filed the hole as fraction to small for new USB outlet. Used a few drops of super glue to fix the new USB socket on side of kitchen in place. In the roof had to file this hole too but able to use the plastic nut that came with the USB outlet to hold in place. Also fitted the cap to this one as its upward facing and so prone for detritus falling into it.

Better than factory now

 

[Blue Yonder]

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