Cooling Fan for the Fridge

snowy55

snowy55

Top Poster
VIP Member
Messages
2,180
Location
N W Leics
Vehicle
T5 SE 140
We are going to sunnier climes in September for a few weeks and I was wondering if the fridge could do with some help to get the air moving around in the enclosed cupboard it lives in.

Vw in there wisdom have failed to allow for any ventillation/ circulation of air around the fridge motor/compressor etc.



Here's what I've come up with.



1. Leave out the big grey plastic bung to allow air in, but if no air can escape at the top then it probably won't help much.



2. Computer fan, ordered a 12v, 80 mm brushless fan of Ebay, runs a bit noisy at full speed



3. Computer fan with thermostatic control, ordered 12v thermostatic switch of Ebay, works well on the bench when the thermocouple is over lamp to simulate the heat of the fridge, but fan is still running at full speed.



4. Computer fan with thermostat and speed control, ordered 12v speed controller of Ebay and it all works well together on the bench, cycles on and off nicely.



At full speed the whole set up takes less then 0.30 amp and at about half speed 0.15 amp.

I'm hoping that by giving the fridge an easier time it will "pay" for the power consumption lost to the fan!



Ordered a spare grey plastic bung from SMG to mount it all on, this turned up a couple of days later.

I've cut a hole in the box that the thermostatic switch comes in to allow easier adjustment of the temperature setting as it is done by 4 toggle switches and you had to take it apart to adjust the temperature.

Runs through a switch on a 2 amp inline fuse.



I'm taking the power from the supply to the fridge. Top 2 connectors marked + and -.



So there we are, solved a problem I might not have.



I've now discovered you can get both those modules on one board........Doh!

I'll post a picture of it all mounted together soon.



All the bits being tested together.

20150628_141931_zpspssam2im.jpg




Fan mounted on the bung.

20150628_135212_zpso12rewrc.jpg




Thermostatic controller.

20150628_135140_zpsw9fxdq1g.jpg



Speed controller
20150628_135130_zpsseis813q.jpg




Power connector.

20150603_201401_zpsip1oc7in.jpg
 
Like the idea of DIY , i got a few 12 v fans recuperated from some desktops ...
But i am not that good on electrics...
Gona study your pics...
 
This is what i did to create some xtra air-circulation ....
In combination with a fan this is ideal i guess...

http://vwcaliforniaclub.com/threads/xtra-ventlation-for-wardrobe-battery.10267/

My inverter lives under that removable panel with the 2nd battery but I can't see any gaps that would allow any airflow to help the fridge. The fridge appears to be almost sealed in its own compartment apart from the big grey plastic bung and the gap around the waste water tank emptying lever.
 
The whole area underneeth the cupboards is not realy sealed and any kind of ventilation is more than useful.
Just the coast of a air-vent in the DIY-store...

My inverter sits under the fridge (2012) and so above the 2nd lesure bat. theres more space and as i looked in it i can see the inverter and the fridge motor looking from behind so one open compartiment....
 
Here are all the parts mounted on the bung. There are separation plugs/sockets between the thermal controller and the speed controller because I can see it being difficult to position the temperature probe, this will allow me to bypass the temperature controller and just allow me to turn the fan on/off and adjust the speed manually.

Last Wednesday when it was 32c, unusual for this part of the world, with the fridge on the compressor measured 61c with a thermal temperature gun, which was almost untouchable to the hand, so I'm sure a bit of forced air flow won't hurt.



20150705_202811_zpso6qnrwy5.jpg




20150705_202752_zps2hfirwxd.jpg




I took the electrical feed from the wires going to the fridge + & - at the top of the connector block.
20150706_191309_zpshfo2tgrk.jpg




Fan fitted and working.
20150706_212749_zps7fm4wit4.jpg
 
Here is an update on this project.
The 80mm fan was moving far too much air and was too loud even when set at about half speed, I tried a 50mm fan but still seemed loud but a 60mm fan from Maplins that said "quiet running" on the box was indeed the quietest of the lot and still moved plenty of air, so this meant the speed controller was no longer needed.

It was a PIA adjusting the the temperature with the internal toggle switches so I looked some more on the Bay of Evil and found a temperature controller with the 3 digital read outs, start temp, actual temp and switch of temp.
I made an adapter plate to mount the 60mm fan where the 80mm fan had previously been mounted and also a plate to mount the temperature controller.
This now all works very well is quiet and is very easy to use because of the digital read outs, according to the CCU it takes 0.20 of an amp, according to my multi-meter it is 0.13 of an amp.
Here's a photo of it installed and switched on.
20150816_105917_zpsvuakd31j.jpg
 
Following this tread as i intend do the same someday .
As i am not that much in to electric , is'nt it posible to just take the power off from the line witch is used by the fridge.
Meaning if the fridge turns on automaticly thru interface off the intern thermostat it also gives power to the fan as long the fridge engine is running ( and heats up....)
Just a12v fan and some connections needed on the correct wires.
Or am i seeing it to simple...?
 
Been in Corsica and Italy this summer, temps up to 40 deg c and no problems with the standard fridge arrangement, how hot do you plan to be?
 
As the California is made for the "European" market then I would have thought it was capable of dealing with the much higher temperatures found in Europe during the summer months, if everything is working correctly.
 
There are some who have suffer fridge failure in high themps. even just in Europe .
Those fans are a litlle help for a small price .
I also visit a other Dutch camper forum and even some in the big white's are placing them afthermarket.
 
I agree it is a simple modification, but does it help reduce these "failures"?
sbmcd had no problems with external temperatures of 40c. So is external temperature a factor or not? Or has there been some design change?
In fact the best way forward is to create some vent for hot air at the top of the fridge and allow convection to do its job.
 
Guess it is all a combination of factors , and trying to eliminate the bad factors results on less troubles...
I created an xtra vent. hole as i pointed out in an other thread .
This is indeed a bit more overkill , but still think it's worth the effort!

But still no answer on my question asked above , anyone....?
 
Following this tread as i intend do the same someday .
As i am not that much in to electric , is'nt it posible to just take the power off from the line witch is used by the fridge.
Meaning if the fridge turns on automaticly thru interface off the intern thermostat it also gives power to the fan as long the fridge engine is running ( and heats up....)
Just a12v fan and some connections needed on the correct wires.
Or am i seeing it to simple...?

In photo 8 in the thread you can see I've used the + and - which are live all the time, so you have to make a judgement as to when to turn the set up on but with the digital readout now available you know whether to leave it on or not, 99.9% of the time you won't need it at all!
I'm also not much of an electrician but all these bits are cheap. There will be wires there that will do as you suggest but I didn't find them.
 
Ok , so if i connect there and put a switch between the fan i can turn it on if needed?!
Got some 12v fans here , will try it out soon !
Tkx
 
In fact the best way forward is to create some vent for hot air at the top of the fridge and allow convection to do its job.

Yes, that was my first thought but to remove the panel between the fridge and the cupboard you have to disconnect the gas pipes and I didn't fancy doing that or you have to drill through not really knowing what is on the other side!
 
As the California is made for the "European" market then I would have thought it was capable of dealing with the much higher temperatures found in Europe during the summer months, if everything is working correctly.

If the California is made for the "European" market how come Vw didn't make the roof capable of getting wet and not corroding?
But yes this fan won't be needed much, if at all, but who would run the risk of tepid beer? It was something to do for the up coming trip to Morocco. I'll report back with fridge temperatures after we return.
 
I have used my van in VERY...many extremes of weather and never had an issue with the fridge...
 
Canvas is a very good material, especially for the California roof walls. There might be more waterproof ones available but they may not withstand the constant folding/stretching etc: I'm happy with it.
As far as the "roof corrosion" that is nothing to do with the California being designed for the European market. More a lack of scientific knowledge regarding using metals and alloys under certain conditions. Something Land Rover have still not come to terms with after almost 70 yrs building vehicles with aluminium alloy panels.

Anyway, back to the subject in question.. Does the fan suck or blow into the fridge compartment. If it blows, could you make a deflector to direct the cold air upwards?
 
If the California is made for the "European" market how come Vw didn't make the roof capable of getting wet and not corroding?
But yes this fan won't be needed much, if at all, but who would run the risk of tepid beer? It was something to do for the up coming trip to Morocco. I'll report back with fridge temperatures after we return.

Morocco will be hot no doubt, but even at 40 deg we had our fridge on setting 2 which kept our Leff beer at a perfect temp. We find on our fridge if we make it too cool we have problems with freezing stuff in the fridge.
 
I personally think this is a great little mod that I may actually do it myself now my van is out if warranty as we have suffered problems with the fridge in the past when it has been very hot.

I think we should encourage modifications like this and thank the people that take the time to post them .
 
I agree, but how do you explain the fact that "sbmcd" seems to have a "Super Fridge" in his California and yet you have experienced problems in hot climates?

What is the difference. Is it the thermostat, condenser or something else?
 
Anyway, back to the subject in question.. Does the fan suck or blow into the fridge compartment. If it blows, could you make a deflector to direct the cold air upwards?

The fan blows into the fridge compartment onto the side of the compressor which is behind the plastic access hole, the condenser lies vertically, parallel with the sliding table when it is in its stowed position. The air that is going in isn't really "cold" but at ambient temperature and of course any air being forced out of the fridge compartment into the cupboard under the hob where the fan draws its air from will be blown back into the fridge compartment, to help with this the cupboard door will be left slightly open, the idea was to create some circulation within the fridge compartment which I think this setup will achieve.
 
Really need a vent in the top section of the cupboard, above the shelf. Is there any space behind the cupboard wall? Could you use a hole cutter there?
 

Similar threads

L
Replies
4
Views
1K
sidepod
sidepod
N
Replies
54
Views
9K
Northbridge
N
Graham
Replies
9
Views
2K
slimblondemoose
S
Ajspicer
Replies
129
Views
30K
reserves
reserves

VW California Club

Back
Top