Christmas in the Hebrides (Lewis and Harris probably)

[Jonathan Duke]

So, with ferry crossing booked.... planning must now commence.


Has anyone done Christmas / New Year in the Outer Hebrides? Don’t worry, we have a parking-heater in our Beach

If anyone can recommend any “bliss” wild-camp locations, cosy pubs for good food and ale etc etc.... Maybe even a campsite and/or lodgeings for a recharge / respite if weather turns sour etc.

We will be travelling as a couple, with small dog. Generally, we like to wild-camp unless we need the “facilities.” We happily cook in our Cali and are pretty much self-sufficient, but like to dine-out and/or enjoy a drink out on occasion also. So, both secluded beaches and cosy villiages etc are all in-scope.

All tips and suggestions welcome!

 

[kp64zl]

A few tips from recent visits -- none in Winter though.....

Barra
The Castlebay Inn on Barra is also fun - especially on a Saturday night when "The Vatersay Boys" are playing (http://www.thevatersayboys.com/)

South Uist
I would recommend the Lochboisdale Hotel on South Uist (next to the Ferry Terminal) as a good place for dinner by a warm fire.

Benbecula
Nunton House hostel good (has Laundry)
The supermarket in Balivanich is open on Sundays and has quite a good selection

Harris:
Hostel: AM Bothan (Leverburgh, near ferry terminal) = good and warm
The seafood restaurant at the ferry terminal is quite good

Lewis
Loch Croistean Restaurant in the Uig Area of Lewis has a good reputation (but was closing at 8pm when we were there in September).

The Scallops / Lobsters at the pier at Miavaig (Uig Area of Lewis) are *amazing* Cook them yourself.

Uig Sands campsite on the North West coast of Lewis is very nice - massive white sand beach, super remote.

We didn't find any pubs in Lewis although did limit ourselves to the west coast. Didn't venture into Stornoway.

Remember - everything (other than the churches) is closed on North Uist, Harris & Lewis on Sundays.

 

[NZCol]

Petrol station in Stornoway is open on a Sunday and has groceries.
Polachar Inn on S Uist is a fantastic boozer and you can park literally on the beacj outside, they are pretty relaxed about it, otherwise Kilbride campsite is a 10 min walk, 25 min stagger home and has a nice little Cafe and nice toilet block.

 

[Phase one]

My best advice is to get yourself the Bradt guide which has lots of ideas, short walks and advice on places to eat - lots of good local information to be found.

On Harris
Uig sands (Ardroil beach) is nice with very informal camping behind the dunes (some decent toilets and water in a converted container). Just beware the tidal range here is huge and occasionally can breach the dunes onto the machair in spring tides. Chessmen story. Great community run cafe tearoom with interesting museum and fabulous view over the sands -don't be put off by dour exterior. Good well stocked local community shop too.
To the south there is Luskentyre bay and the Harris trust offer lay by camping on the minor road to Luskentyre

 

[Bill R]

The Loch Erisort Inn , south of Stornoway had a great fire in the corner and the food was fantastic back in May.
I found Hushinish a great spot, lovely beach , remote but amazing Toilet & Shower block recently built, with no charge other than a box for donations.
Eilean Fraoich Camp Site, in Shawbost on Lewis is great for a quick visit with a superbly friendly couple running it plus the best wifi I've ever come across on any campsite.
South West Harris is beautiful, can't say any more than that it just is !
Have a great time

 

[Jason wallace]

Martin Dorey's new book has three sections covering that area. Not read it in my copy yet but may have some useful info.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/184486538X/?tag=eliteelect-21

 

[BillyCasper]

Another vote for Uig/ Ardroil


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Jonathan Duke]

Thanks for all the tips so far.... Some great ideas! We’re buzzing for the trip now! Roll-on Crimbo!

 

[Richy]

Hi there,
We did the islands at the start of the summer and while in Harris we visited the Machair Kitchen for a very nice meal, they have limited spaces to camp, but we found a Hebrides trust lay-by 5 minutes walk up the road with spectacular views.

We also had a belter of a lunch from the the snack van Island Bites, it’s just up the road from the Harris Distillery

Loads of places to visit, there’s a schecluded beach at Butt of Lewis lighthouse, it’s not signposted but there’s a concrete pad, very nice spot.

Enjoy

 

[Jonathan Duke]

View attachment 39327

Lovely photo! Cheers.

 

[trailtrotters]

Harris is an amazingly island with the east coast resembling a lunar landscape with the drive feeling like a rollercoaster with water on both sides. I can't wait to go back and experience it all over again. The beaches on the west coast are breathtaking. Be prepared for strong winds and remember to pack binoculars.

The mission house studio is a must visit for ceramics crafted by the famous Nickolai Globe, we have one of his 'discs' hanging in our house which I admire daily. See www.missionhousestudio.co.uk. Might be worth calling to see if they will be open during your festive visit.

I was going to suggest you visit the Rodel Hotel for lunch on the southern tip, just checked to make sure it is still open, as when we stayed there three years ago the owner's wife was chronically ill and he suggested they may have to sell and move to mainland Scotland for healthcare. Sadly my research has shown it is now closed and is no longer a hotel. You might find this link to a newspaper article interesting and feel the location is worth a visit but will not be disappointed to find you cannot enjoy a meal there.

https://www.scotsman.com/news/historic-harris-hotel-steeped-in-legend-for-sale-1-4197402

Have a great trip. The drive over the mountains from Harris to Lewis is also amazing and you are likely to experience 4 seasons in an hour!

 

[Velma's Dad]

Remember - everything (other than the churches) is closed on North Uist, Harris & Lewis on Sundays.

V. important to note that one. When kp64zl says 'everything' he/she means EVERYTHING. You might get a packet of crisps in the petrol station in Stornoway on a Sunday, but that's it.

In response to the OP's aim for 'cosy pubs', actually there are very few pubs at all in the Western Isles outside of Stornoway and Tarbet, apart from a couple that others have noted above. There are some good small hotels/lodges on the Uists that cater largely to the shooting fraternity but well worth considering as eateries.

Most of the places that look like villages on a map are not much more than farmsteads or a scatter of forlorn-looking bungalows.

The islands are spectacular wilderness and I'm sure you'll love them. They're not quite the end of the world, but you can see it from there.

 

[kaf2546]

Hi Jonathan, great idea, make sure you get to Luskentyre and Cnip, campsite at latter may be closed but lots wildcamping spots and think there were honesty boxes at sites and lay-bys near Luskentyre. Slangevar, J&K

 

[kp64zl]

Gin distillery in Tarbert definitely worth a visit.

Nice cafe. Great Gin

https://www.harrisdistillery.com/harris-gin

 

[Velma's Dad]

Gin distillery in Tarbert definitely worth a visit.

Nice cafe. Great Gin

https://www.harrisdistillery.com/harris-gin

+1 for that. Classy gin, very nice with a grapefruit slice.

 

[jqp]

The Loch Erisort Inn , south of Stornoway had a great fire in the corner and the food was fantastic back in May.
I found Hushinish a great spot, lovely beach , remote but amazing Toilet & Shower block recently built, with no charge other than a box for donations.
Eilean Fraoich Camp Site, in Shawbost on Lewis is great for a quick visit with a superbly friendly couple running it plus the best wifi I've ever come across on any campsite.
South West Harris is beautiful, can't say any more than that it just is !
Have a great time

+1 for Hushinish. I had a wonderful weekend there with my old dog in 2011. Just bear in mind it's a 32 miles round trip to the nearest shop.

 

[Velma's Dad]

+1 for Hushinish. I had a wonderful weekend there with my old dog in 2011. Just bear in mind it's a 32 miles round trip to the nearest shop.

On a very wee road.

 

[Jonathan Duke]

This thread just keeps getting better & better! Thanks for all the steerage folks! I’m sure we’ll run out of Gin (we always do) so glad to hear we may well be able to re-provision (not forgetting the filing station crisps of course.)

 

[Steven Birbeck]

Some great info here thanks I,m hoping to cycle the Hebredian Cycle Route next year with the management driving and providing support.

 

[Jonathan Duke]

And we’re off.... Happy Soltice, Fellow Cali Lovers!


Taynuilt Pier, River Awe - Loch Etive



Oban > Barra Ferry

 

[westfalia]

And we’re off.... Happy Soltice, Fellow Cali Lovers!

View attachment 40208
Taynuilt Pier, River Awe - Loch Etive

View attachment 40207

Oban > Barra Ferry

Its like a millpond. Enjoy

 

[Jonathan Duke]

So we took the Oban > Castlebay (Barra) ferry, is was a smooth crossing with great views along the way. We had a massive fish & chips from the onboard cafe during the passage. However, it was darkness when we disembarked in Barra.

We headed South, accross the causeway to Vatersay where we parked up beside the Beach and Community hall. The Hall has coin operated (£1 = 3mins) showers, toilets, washing area and potable water. You are welcome to use their facilities 24x7x365 on an “honesty box” basis. The adjacent cafe was closed, even the following morning, but I expect it’s much busier during the Summer months. We had the place to ourselves.

Next morning, we made a nice breakfast omelette in the Cali followed by a walk on the Beach. It was 9 degrees Celsius, very mild. We then did a lap of Barra, stopping at some further beaches and viewpoints before catching the Ardmhòr > Eriskay Ferry. We stopped at the Lochboisdale Hotel on our way up thru South Uist, but it wasn’t serving food due to their being a Christmas party booked in for this evening.

Good job we had the big omelettes as these sustained us to late afternoon when we stopped at the only pub in North Uist, the Westford Inn. The food and service was excellent. We then found a cracker park4night location nearby.

The drive up South then North Uist was spectacular! Pity the days are so short tho. Time for some YouTube and beers.

 

[Gavinskii]

The place you stayed on Vartesay is exactly where we stayed for a night - but it was summer and still beautifully remote.
You have had some great advise already, but here is another check out Horgaborst, there is an honesty box and 4 pitches (from memory) overlooking a little beach and near to a golf course. I remember watching otters messing about in the waves.
Have a fantastic time and keep the pictures coming!

 

[Phase one]

I see you found the same overnight site as we did in April!
Have fun and enjoy


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[Jonathan Duke]

Found another Community Hall with showers/amenities on an “Honesty Box” basis, this is a great idea and fair play to “the Community” for the hospitality.

Some really cracking scenery here! Our Cali is in its element! All the shops are closed today, and as such the Cali is being everything it’s meant to be. What a vehicle!