Anderson Plug and EHU

[welshwestie]

I'm looking for peoples thoughts on my embryonic plan to fit an anderson plug just above the ehu socket. I will still have to lift the flap cover, but I recon I can squeeze in a 50amp plug above the 240v connector. I want to either plug in a solar panel or an additional battery to my existing leisure battery when I occasionally wild camp. I thought if I used the same access point on my Cali Club I will not only have a neater solution, bit also the ehu plug is adjacent to the leisure battery.

I am considering 16mm2 cable and think a metre will be sufficent as well as a mega fuse to protect it all.

 

[sidepod]

Are they IP rated for external use?

How long are you planning to wild camp for?

Your new 130Ah battery will give you about three/four days.

If you're planning to carry the extra battery then why not just fit one in the compartment with the existing battery?

Am I missing part of your cunning plan ?

S. :!:

 

[TwentyOneThirtyFive]

SP - If it's a late Westy, the battery compartment is smaller I think. On the early you get the full length of the cargo area, and the space for 2 batteries. On the later model they have this new fangled thing called gas and the bottle sits right at the back, so only one larger capacity battery.

Do I get another bobble hat? (for bonus points, if you got the gas option on an early, I believe the cylinder sits in the cupboard under the cooker).

Anyway, we did 5 days without hookup once, but things were very flat after that.

WW - you have to carry the battery around with you anyway, so why not have the connection on the inside? I'd be tempted to use the 175amp ones as well, any imbalance between the battery states could see quite a current flowing on initial connection?

 

[sidepod]

Ok Dan, a couple of bonus BH points there.

On hols this year I spent a few days on a campsite stalking a late T4 and noticed the gas bottle in the rear, T5 stylee I believe?

Mine has the bottle under the hob in the cupboard which means fewer tins of beans/bottles of beer/packets of pasta.

WW, where is your bottle? Gas that is

S.

 

[welshwestie]

I must have had a lapse when I posted as I have a Cali Coach lol.

The Gaz bottle is in the back adjacent to the battery and therefore I was limited with internal battery space. I didn't want to use the space under the bed or at the rear as that is used for storing mostly useful stuff.

I also want the option of using the external anderson plug as a plug in for a solar panel. If I go the solar route the anderson plug would still be under the ehu flap and then via 10mm2 cable connect to a MPPT controller in the wardrobe. I would then replace any MC4 connectors on the solar panel with an anderson plug and simply plug in the panel. I think I've finally sourced the MPPT.

I'm also thinking I might have to change the dipswitches on the display unit in the cabin for two battery mode as apparently when you install a higher amp battery the correct capacity will not be shown. http://www.t4-wiki.de/wiki/Zentralelektronik

 

[TwentyOneThirtyFive]

Was having a think about this, as I'm fitting some additional power connections at the moment.

I'm not sure how weather proof those anderson connections are? Have you thought about the Hella plugs they use on motorbikes? This is the same connector as your 12v in the back of the van.

http://stores.ebay.co.uk/towzatronics/A ... =240516319

I realise that won't fit where you want it to, but you could mount it out of the way behind the unused fog light cover. I've seen others use this position for hookup points.

 

[sidepod]

I'm not sure about this.

Batteries when connected together will equalize. Connect a fully charged battery to a flat battery and you'll end up with two half charged batteries.

Given that you'll be connecting your auxilliary battery to the leisure battery in parallel then you'll need to do this as soon as you park otherwise you'll simply discharge one into the other.

Perhaps this is what you had in mind?

If you simply want to take the auxilliary along with you and plug it in as and when/if you need it then you're going to need a more complex changeover switch to isolate the flat battery and connect the fresh one?

It's do-able obviously but more complex.

Again, how long are you planning on wild camping without driving. A new, fully charged battery should be good for 4 days with sensible use?

S.

 

[TwentyOneThirtyFive]

Yes, ignore me. Those Hella connections won't take the current of batteries equalising. I was only thinking in terms of the solar hookup.

 

[sidepod]

Perhaps it may be easier to take a gas powered fridge with you, if there is such a thing small enough and portable enough.

It's only the fridge that will kill your battery after a few days. Without that load the standard battery config should outlast the beer supply which ultimately will cause you to drive the vehicle.

S.

 

[TwentyOneThirtyFive]

As an aside, because I'm just great at staying on topic, what do we know about the Sterling chargers?

There are Alternator to Battery and Battery to Battery versions. How and why are these better than charging the habitation batteries than a split charge relay?

Or are they the same thing in an expensive an shiny suit?

 

[sidepod]

Well I know exactly 100% more than I did 30 seconds ago when I read your post.

Never heard of them. I'll put it on my reading list.

S.

 

[sidepod]

I got this far......

For best effect use open lead acid batteries, avoid gel, sealed and AGM batteries. (See which is the best battery article in the FAQ section.)



That's not good as the correct battery type for the Westy is Gel.

Open lead acid is not good as the compartment needs to be sealed and vented. You wouldn't want to wake up dead would you?

S.

 

[TwentyOneThirtyFive]

Of course not, who would put the kettle on?

When I bought my van it was fitted with mismatched batteries - 1 open LA starter battery and one open LA leisure, of massively different capacities. The first time I put it on charge the smell was...interesting.

I now have two Sonneshien Gels.

I don't get the differences in charging the LA batteries. For instance, why can you charge a Gel battery via a pretty much uncontrolled split charge relay system (which is essentially a 14v supply from the alternator), but not a halfords special car battery charger? (ignoring the buzzing!)

Answers in single syllables please

 

[TwentyOneThirtyFive]

ok, ignore that. I just read through this document:

http://www.sterling-power.com/images/do ... arging.pdf

and the answer appears to be 0.4v.

 

[TwentyOneThirtyFive]

For best effect use open lead acid batteries, avoid gel, sealed and AGM batteries. (See which is the best battery article in the FAQ section.)

Just reading through the A2B charger docs and it can be configured to GELs (ie. max charge voltage of 14.4v)

Anyway, sorry for the thread diversion. I was wondering if there was a simpler solution to the "additional plug in battery" question.

Back to work I suppose.

 

[sidepod]

Errrrr, yes....i think? I read it but found myself glazing over :crazy

I've got the same setup as you. 2 x 80Ah Sonnenchein Gel.

I find best results are achieved if I leave it plugged in when the van isn't in use ensuring a max charge. I've checked the output of the charger and it correlates with the value shown on the main control panel.

Now, we've established the answer is 0,4v, what was the original question.....?

S.

 

[TwentyOneThirtyFive]

I think it was "would anyone like a cup of tea?".

Like you I put it on hookup regularly, but I'm looking forward to a time where I don't have a regular 240v hookup available. Those batteries were expensive, I would like to keep them in good health.

 

[sidepod]

but I'm looking forward to a time where I don't have a regular 240v hookup available. quote]


That sounds like somebody is planning a looooonnnnnnnnnnnggg trip?

 

[TwentyOneThirtyFive]

Or having his 'leccy cut off...

 

[welshwestie]

I also looked into the Sterling B2B , CTek also do one. But Sterling didnt seem to be okay with Gel and more specifically didn't have the charge phase for my Exide which requires a IU or IU2 charge phase. The existing charger chucks out 9ah, and the CTEK D250S 20ah is nearly £200 but provides 20ah. However, you read the product sheet and it says only suitable for lead/wet batteries. Very confusing.

I'm looking to maximise my time away from EHU or running the engine. I know the new battery will extend my time off grid, but if I can extend this without too much trouble and money then will give it a go.

Ive just finished soldering/fettling my National Luna led lights. I like the lights as they have a bright and dim setting. One has a din plug, and I have epoxied two strong magnets from an old hardrive to the back, and so it stays put. The led is bright and uses a lot less power than the existing westie lights. I have also got another with an orange lens cover which will go outside and attach to my awning. Apparently the amber/orange lens doesnt attract the bitey things.

 

[TwentyOneThirtyFive]

The Sterling A2B charger has a setting for Exide.

http://www.sterling-power.com/images/do ... /AR12V.pdf

Probably makes the ctek look cheap though.

Anyway, sorry, we haven't answered your question at all really...

 

[welshwestie]

HI no probs. I will continue to look into this. Just had a read on a Votronic B2B which will work with gel, but the problem with these high amp chargers is that your battery bank has to be much bigger. My 120ah battery is getting around charge rate of 9ah, which is fine, as it fits in with the c10 charge rate (9ah X 10hours = 90a). But I would need a 450ah battery to safely benefit from a 45a B2B with a c10 rate. Gels like a longer charge rate and fast charging can damage them.

 

[sidepod]

I think I'm being obtuse here as I'm not getting this?

Are we talking about adding an improved charging system to faster re-charge the leisure battery or, some piece of kit that somehow charges the leisure battery form the starter battery?

If it's the former then I thought the brief was to not run the engine?
If it's the latter then surely you'll simply just end up with a flat starter battery?

No free lunch.

Somebody please put my small brain out of its missery?

S.

 

[welshwestie]

Lol. Im looking at any option that will prolong wild camping without damaging or reducing the long term efficiency of the battery. Unfortunately the more I look into it, the more I discover that what appears to be a good solution is compromised by either not being that good in terms of a reliablly charging or maintaining the battery. Solar can reduce the life of a battery by either the panel not producing enough current (voltage or amperage) or the regulator not having the correct charge phase for the battery I use. The result is an under charged battery or overcharged. Both are problems. I then looked at b2b chargers as a way of effectively charging the battery on a short trip with increased amperage per hour. But both sterling and ctek as well as the voltron will damage batteries that require a longer boost/absorption phase . At the moment it apears that the on board charger is the safest way to maintain the battery, but it will struggle with short trips and longush stays away from ehu. Other than buying another battery or generator there is no obvious solution. Unless of course I alter my camping habits.

 

[welshwestie]

Spent some time dealing with stone chips today and at the same time attempted to remove the display unit so I could alter the dipswitch to 2 batteries, but I couldn't get it out!!! :?

I used two small screwdrivers. Anyone ever managed to get theirs out? Im in the need of tips and encouragement.