T5.1 Clutch bleed nipple spanner!

[Pete M]

Hi folks,
Clutch pedal to the floor problem…

I want to bleed it myself first before I take to garage just in case it’s only air in the system but the bleed nipple isn’t the sort I’ve seen before ie 8mm hex spanner required but it has a white plastic boss around it, how is this opened, do I need a special tool?

Thanks in advance.

 

[sidepod]

Are you sure you’re not just looking at the nipple dust cap?

 

[Pete M]

As mentioned above the is a white plastic boss around the bleed nipple (not a black rubber dust cap) so no where to put a regular hex spanner, it has 2 flat sides so guessing I’ll use an open ended spanner across the flats.

 

[Alan Andrews]

As mentioned above the is a white plastic boss around the bleed nipple (not a black rubber dust cap) so no where to put a regular hex spanner, it has 2 flat sides so guessing I’ll use an open ended spanner across the flats.

Can you provide a photo please? This is sometimes easier to explain issue and direct resolution.

 

[Speedyspeedster]

Hi guys, I am also trying to open this. I think this is the same bleed Pete is talking about. 6 speed T5.1 Did you manage to open it or does anyone else have any advice?

 

[sidepod]

That looks more like a pneumatic connection or vent/drain than a hydraulic bleed.

 

[Speedyspeedster]

Thanks Sidepod. Yeah I am not convinced it’s what I’m looking for either. I have followed another thread for concentric slaves that said to stick it in 4th and that will reveal a white bleed valve. It’s mounted on what looks like this pipe pictured.

 

[Ch1pbutty]

Our recent clutch to to the floor experience
at 38,000miles. T5.1.

RAC topped up brake fluid reservoir as pedal will hit the floor if level gets below a certain level (where small pipe joins the reservoir). He then pulled clutch pedal back up, pushed pedal back down but went straight to floor and stayed there.

Checked for leaks under the van but couldn’t find any…but tricky as difficult to see without removing plastic under tray, so said we might be lucky and just need new master cylinder; He managed to drive it to local garage. They looked at a it a few days later and advised slave cylinder had failed…replaced master, slave, clutch & DMF (not always required). £1100. Fair bit of labour as gearbox needs dropping to access slave, new clutch…as fluid from failed slave will contaminate/ruin existing clutch.

(Garage has an excellent reputation locally, so wouldn’t replace anything that didn’t need doing.)

Basis above, would say that if topping up brake fluid - pumping pedal to clear air - does not resolve it, you will need a trip to the garage.

 

[Speedyspeedster]

Thanks for the post. My symptoms are slightly different. Fluid level if anything high, no sign of leaking. Clutch still works but the biting point changes position from being very low to normal. Only started doing it this week but at one point on Thursday I thought I was not going to make it home, biting point was about an inch off the floor, started going up a hill then pedal is back to normal?

 

[Ch1pbutty]

Thanks for the post. My symptoms are slightly different. Fluid level if anything high, no sign of leaking. Clutch still works but the biting point changes position from being very low to normal. Only started doing it this week but at one point on Thursday I thought I was not going to make it home, biting point was about an inch off the floor, started going up a hill then pedal is back to normal?

Ah ok - Ours was straight to the floor without any prior warning. Fine one day, next day no clutch. Luckily happened on the driveway.

 

[Speedyspeedster]

haha, yeah that definitely could have been worse.

Clutch has done just under 100k and I do feel the 4 motion means I have to slip it a bit more at times. Can’t have a huge amount more life left in it.

I was hoping to give it a quick bleed to rule that out If that fails maybe change the master?

 

[Azteccamper]

Ah ok - Ours was straight to the floor without any prior warning. Fine one day, next day no clutch. Luckily happened on the driveway.

Likewise. Mine went on drive and had the lot done like yourself.

 

[Speedyspeedster]

How many miles had they done?

 

[Ch1pbutty]

How many miles had they done?

38k, 11years old

(I have never had to replace a clutch on any older car / van previously before 150k…so a bit annoying! Poor design)

 

[Azteccamper]

How many miles had they done?

10 yrs old. 52k
slave cylinder - but did the lot as labour involved.

 

[Speedyspeedster]

That sucks!
So is that an age thing or because they are low mileage?

 

[Ch1pbutty]

That sucks!
So is that an age thing or because they are low mileage?

Just bad luck. Many others, higher mileages have not had any issues.

We can still sell the van for the same price that we purchased it for 3 years ago, so not the end of the world; Just annoying when compared against other past VW vans that we have owned.

 

[vmaxkiddy]

I’ve had two slave cylinders fail, the first, pedal straight to floor sat on the drive, the second failure was the biting point altering, sometimes it was almost at floor level, sometimes with the clutch disengaged it would suddenly engage instantly . The original cylinder had a plastic body as did the first replacement, the second was a metal unit, despite having the same part number.

 

[Ch1pbutty]

I’ve had two slave cylinders fail, the first, pedal straight to floor sat on the drive, the second failure was the biting point altering, sometimes it was almost at floor level, sometimes with the clutch disengaged it would suddenly engage instantly . The original cylinder had a plastic body as did the first replacement, the second was a metal unit, despite having the same part number.

Interesting.

Poor design. Ours failed without any warning which would able a total pain had it happened during a family holiday.

 

[andyinluton]

Thanks for the post. My symptoms are slightly different. Fluid level if anything high, no sign of leaking.

To me that sounds like a sign of the master cylinder failing, Instead of the fluid being pushed down the pipe to operate the slave cylinder its being pushed back towards the reservoir.
Take the top of the reservoir & get someone to push the clutch pedal, & see if you can see movement of the fluid.

 

[Pete M]

Hi guys, I am also trying to open this. I think this is the same bleed Pete is talking about. 6 speed T5.1 Did you manage to open it or does anyone else have any advice?

View attachment 118549

Just use an open ended spanner across the flat on the nylon boss which is actually the bleed nipple, 13mm from memory.

 

[Speedyspeedster]

Thanks guys,
Pete you were absolutely correct, found mine once I got it going was a little over hand tight which is frustrating due to the lack of access but a 13mm spanner did the trick.

Although it behaved itself last week, this week has been a nightmare. Tried bleeding, got me about 30 miles before it started playing up again. I actually drove the last leg in second and had to turn the engine off to stop the van in my drive.

Last night I installed a new master cylinder. Will let you know how I get on.