Leisure battery feed problem

[Stuart3]

Hi all. I've got a T4 Westfalia California Generation and the leisure battery was knackered. Before replacing it I tested the cables running to it without it on to make sure it was getting a charge from the main battery and it was. I went to put a new one in but noticed that the terminal had touched a bolt whilst I was driving (see photo). Now there is no charge when testing the cables. Could it have blown a fuse and if so where is it located? If not, what else might it be? Any help much appreciated. Stuart

 

[WelshGas]

Hi all. I've got a T4 Westfalia California Generation and the leisure battery was knackered. Before replacing it I tested the cables running to it without it on to make sure it was getting a charge from the main battery and it was. I went to put a new one in but noticed that the terminal had touched a bolt whilst I was driving (see photo). Now there is no charge when testing the cables. Could it have blown a fuse and if so where is it located? If not, what else might it be? Any help much appreciated. StuartView attachment 125054

There should be a fuse near the split charge relay. On the T5 and above it is 80amps under front passenger seat RHD where the split charge relay is positioned. So you need to check where your relay is.

 

[sidepod]

When you say there is no charge, I take it you mean with the engine running?

There is no fuse that I know of.

Those cable are fed form the split charge relay which is located somewhere under the fridge.

You may well have destroyed it when the live (Red) connector shorted out.

Find said relay and a) test it by applying 12v to the control terminal. If it’s not clicking then it’s buggered. If it is operating ok the test continuity across the big terminals.

If all this is ok the you need to test between the split charge relay and the engine battery which is where the cables run to.

Make sense?

 

[WelshGas]

When you say there is no charge, I take it you mean with the engine running?

There is no fuse that I know of.

Those cable are fed form the split charge relay which is located somewhere under the fridge.

You may well have destroyed it when the live (Red) connector shorted out.

Find said relay and a) test it by applying 12v to the control terminal. If it’s not clicking then it’s buggered. If it is operating ok the test continuity across the big terminals.

If all this is ok the you need to test between the split charge relay and the engine battery which is where the cables run to.

Make sense?

Surely there must be a fuse somewhere between alternator/engine battery and the split charge relay?

 

[sidepod]

Surely there must be a fuse somewhere between alternator/engine battery and the split charge relay?

I’ve never seen one. I’ll check the wiring scheme when I get home tomorrow.

 

[Stuart3]

Thank you all for the comments. I did wonder if I may have fried something. How easy is it to access the split charge relay if is under the fridge? Is it a take the fridge out job?

 

[sidepod]

Thank you all for the comments. I did wonder if I may have fried something. How easy is it to access the split charge relay if is under the fridge? Is it a take the fridge out job?

No. There is a panel similar to the battery access panel. Fixings are inside the cupboard below the cooker.

 

[Stuart3]

Finally got around to looking at this. I have managed to access the split relay. Without the engine running there is power to it (see picture) and with engine running it was about 13-14 volts. I assume that this means the split relay is knackered as still no power to the leisure battery terminals? Just want to check before buying a replacement.

 

[sidepod]

Not necessarily. You have two large red cables there. Basically one in from the engine and one out to the leisure battery.
With the engine off you should have 12v at one of the cables and zero at the other. Engine on, same voltage at both.

There should be another small control wire also which triggers the relay (alternator output), this should have 12v with engine running and zero with engine off.

Test this function with any 12v supply to prove relay integrity.

 

[Stuart3]

Problem solved! New split relay fitted and power back to the terminals. Thank you @sidepod for your assistance, very much appreciated.