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Webasto T5 California 2007

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Chopper24

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36
Hi to all, I need some expert advice I have a webasto installed as stock in my be California t5 2097 that works perfectly well when connected to the mains current, but then when I use it just on the battery, heat doesn't come out but the fan works. Then after a small time the fan stops too. I checked the voltage of the battery on the display unit but it's still high at over 90% and over 12v. So can any give me some advice what I should do? Why does it not work properly when I'm using only the battery? This obviously prevents me from using it if I'm not connect to the power supply thus i must only use it when in a camping.

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Does it run (well does it start) with the engine running. Like Jts, my mind jumps to earth shunt problem. Use the search here for more info.
 
Hi to all, I need some expert advice I have a webasto installed as stock in my be California t5 2097 that works perfectly well when connected to the mains current, but then when I use it just on the battery, heat doesn't come out but the fan works. Then after a small time the fan stops too. I checked the voltage of the battery on the display unit but it's still high at over 90% and over 12v. So can any give me some advice what I should do? Why does it not work properly when I'm using only the battery? This obviously prevents me from using it if I'm not connect to the power supply thus i must only use it when in a camping.

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You say the Control Panel shows 12+v. Is that before or when the heater is trying to start? If voltage drops below 11.5v then the heater will not start.
The Battery% is very inaccurate . The voltage is more important.
 
Thank you for your comments, I took a video to show the situation but I cannot upload it so I add a set of photos in time order. It clearly shows that after a very short time not even a minute it all turns off but the air vent becomes activated although only cold air. I confirm at the start the screen flickers... I wait your kind expert comments?
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Either your batteries are coming to the end or its the
Earth shunt.

Lights flickering tend to point towards the Earth shunt.
 
Either your batteries are coming to the end or its the
Earth shunt.

Lights flickering tend to point towards the Earth shunt.
That's a good point. I believe the interior lights flicker when ttying to fire the heater with a dodgy earth shunt.
 
Im not really a gambling man, but id put your house on it. :)
Don't think a house will make the earth shunt give better connection.

My god, look at that rotating knob, and it still works?
Mine looked like new and broke.
 
Sorry but what is earth shunt?

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Thank you Westfalia - i'm now getting a better understanding - can someone send me a PM with their mobile number so tomorrow i can call them to discuss further this aspect - i want to give it a go and fix it. Unfortunately i'm unable to send a PM.
 
Thank you Westfalia - i'm now getting a better understanding - can someone send me a PM with their mobile number so tomorrow i can call them to discuss further this aspect - i want to give it a go and fix it. Unfortunately i'm unable to send a PM.
Have you bought the Earth shunt kit ?

Also, with yours being a 2007 i think that the sink needs to come out
and then you can undo the 3 screws that hold the fridge in place.

There is another way if that's the case with yours and that is to remove the rear
leisure battery and cut a hole in the Dibond board so you can access the earth.
 
Any chance of speaking to an expert on the phone I will call you tomorrow to discuss further. Await details and phone number so I can make the call in English. I really want to give this mod a go. Thanks

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I’ve done the earth shunt in like ten Callis or so...send an email to me (Emil.silenhagAATTgmail.com). I can send you a description how to fix the earth shunt.
 
+ westfalia - ok thanks - can you share the phone number of the club shop.
+ emil silenhag - i will send you an email today.
many thanks
have a great day
 
With great happiness and satisfaction I have fixed the earth shunt and my problem is now solved. Incredible. I thank the forum for this help and in particular to Emil who has helped me immensely. Thank you.


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With great happiness and satisfaction I have fixed the earth shunt and my problem is now solved. Incredible. I thank the forum for this help and in particular to Emil who has helped me immensely. Thank you.


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Nice. :thumb
Now post pics of how you did it, to help others.
may i speak to some expert on this topic?
It is a friendly forum after all.
 
My experience with earth-shunt!!
Had the usual indications of this problem a few years ago. Local “specialist“ put an earth-to-chassis connection from the front leisure battery. I knew no better then (!) so accepted the fix even though intuitively it seemed a little “simple”.
I learned afterwards that whilst it does help fix the problems, it also “bypasses” all charge info from the rear battery... so the Control Panel shows bad charge info. eg: if you run the Webasto overnight and the front battery drops to charge level below ~40% Webasto cuts out (because the control panel can’t read/add the rear battery charge due to the “bypass” of the shunt - and Webasto has a safety cutout charge limit!!!).
I’m no specialist but this does make sense!! Can anyone confirm this????
Today I’ve put the proper revised shunt where it should be. Easy, but time consuming (I have a 2006 Cali so needed to take out the bloody kitchen to access fridge fixings)
I disconnected the front battery earth as well (the bodged fix) and it was the first time I drove more than 10 mins (with the fridge running) without dropping to (false) 80% indicated.
I just need someone to confirm to me that I was right to get rid of that front earth connection??? Even though everything seems to work better!!!
For anyone updating this shunt here are a couple of undocumented tips:
1. Use latex gloves to lift the fridge once dis-attached... sweaty hands don’t do it.
2. There are cables (from rear battery and 240V input) that seem to thread around the fridge pump and electronics underneath the fridge box so make sure to check if it’s cables that are stopping the fridge sliding out smoothly (because it should!!)
3. You’ll need to reset the Control Panel after reconnecting the shunt by pushing the ‘back button’ (bottom right) for a few seconds.
4. Have a 5.5mm socket with extension!!! (if you need to remove the kitchen). And a good set of Torx and spanner’s (10mm/16mm/17mm/18mm)
5. Remember you’re adding a brown cable, not simply replacing the existing one!!!
There are plenty of links on this subject to get hold of these conversion kits s
these
Hope this helps.
Don’t pay VW to do it - it’s a half day job and rewarding when you get it done!!
Nik1FA97E0F-DFA8-406E-B9DC-27CAA0931A54.jpegEBC382C2-7786-43A0-AC50-EF97ED0E2427.jpeg61C9CFB2-EE1F-4BC5-B9FE-4F683DBB65D3.jpeg1FDE5469-23AC-4FC9-89CC-D9B322DF4C39.jpeg0AEF6350-ED57-48BA-B297-6D393FC3F7AF.jpeg
 
My experience with earth-shunt!!
Had the usual indications of this problem a few years ago. Local “specialist“ put an earth-to-chassis connection from the front leisure battery. I knew no better then (!) so accepted the fix even though intuitively it seemed a little “simple”.
I learned afterwards that whilst it does help fix the problems, it also “bypasses” all charge info from the rear battery... so the Control Panel shows bad charge info. eg: if you run the Webasto overnight and the front battery drops to charge level below ~40% Webasto cuts out (because the control panel can’t read/add the rear battery charge due to the “bypass” of the shunt - and Webasto has a safety cutout charge limit!!!).
I’m no specialist but this does make sense!! Can anyone confirm this????
Today I’ve put the proper revised shunt where it should be. Easy, but time consuming (I have a 2006 Cali so needed to take out the bloody kitchen to access fridge fixings)
I disconnected the front battery earth as well (the bodged fix) and it was the first time I drove more than 10 mins (with the fridge running) without dropping to (false) 80% indicated.
I just need someone to confirm to me that I was right to get rid of that front earth connection??? Even though everything seems to work better!!!
For anyone updating this shunt here are a couple of undocumented tips:
1. Use latex gloves to lift the fridge once dis-attached... sweaty hands don’t do it.
2. There are cables (from rear battery and 240V input) that seem to thread around the fridge pump and electronics underneath the fridge box so make sure to check if it’s cables that are stopping the fridge sliding out smoothly (because it should!!)
3. You’ll need to reset the Control Panel after reconnecting the shunt by pushing the ‘back button’ (bottom right) for a few seconds.
4. Have a 5.5mm socket with extension!!! (if you need to remove the kitchen). And a good set of Torx and spanner’s (10mm/16mm/17mm/18mm)
5. Remember you’re adding a brown cable, not simply replacing the existing one!!!
There are plenty of links on this subject to get hold of these conversion kits s
these
Hope this helps.
Don’t pay VW to do it - it’s a half day job and rewarding when you get it done!!
NikView attachment 60249View attachment 60250View attachment 60251View attachment 60252View attachment 60253
Check out ‘Zen Dog’ on this forumfor some backup info.
 
Check out ‘Zen Dog’ on this forumfor some backup info.
Definitely remove the Earth cable installed previously by your friendly “Specialist “.
 
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